Why we recommend Glazing
We recommend heat treating the edges, eaves and end laps for a couple of reasons. By itself, DR!PSTOP is resistant to mold and mildew. But as dirty rain water runs down a roof, organic material can get trapped in the air pockets in the membrane. These organics provide food for mold and mildew to feed off of and grow from. Besides hurting the appearance, this mold and mildew can spread once it takes hold. This can accelerate the second problem which is wicking moisture in the building. Glazing prevents the wicking of moisture back up which can slow the evaporation process. On end laps (panels lapped over each other from ridge to eave typically found in wider buildings where a single panel length is not possible), heat treating keeps the water from wicking in as it runs down the roof during rain or snow. Holding water on a panel like this can void manufacturers’ warranties.
How to Glaze the Edges/Eaves
Since the material is polyester, it melts when heated by either a heat gun or open flame. The key is to melt the material completely until it looks like dots. We recommend using the heat gun for safety purposes. (fig.1)
It should be moved over the target area. When using the heat gun, place it approximately 1” - 2” inches from the material and move the gun CONSTANTLY over the material until it melts. The material will have a brail or raised dot like appearance as it melts. (fig.2)
The goal is treat all of the material that the exposed edge/eave can’t wick the run-off moisture; approximately 2 inches. And it will feel coarse to the touch. While some Builders have used other methods successfully, we recommend the heat gun. End laps are typically done before the panels are on the roof, either on the lift or on saw horses sat out for this purpose. (fig.3)